Questions about Colored Pencil Sharpeners and Erasers

Let’s talk about those necessary accessories that help us get the most out of our pencils: colored pencil sharpeners and erasers.

Questions about Colored Pencil Sharpeners and Erasers

There are lots of sharpeners and erasers on the market. I haven’t used all of them, or even most of them, so the best I can do is tell you the which sharpeners and erasers I’ve used and what I thought of them.

Questions about Colored Pencil Sharpeners and Erasers

Let’s begin with sharpeners.

Colored Pencil Sharpeners

Reader Question:

What is your favorite sharpener for colored pencils?

Carrie’s Answer:

Of all the sharpeners I’ve used, I’m not sure I have a favorite. All of them have worked well for some applications, and haven’t worked at all for others. I haven’t found a sharpener that works great for everything.

Hand-Held Sharpeners

The first sharpeners I ever used were hand-held sharpeners. You know the kind. They’re a dollar or less at your favorite super store or grocery store, they come in bright colors, and are made of plastic.

Sometimes they come with a container to hold shavings; sometimes they don’t.

Questions about Colored Pencil Sharpeners and Erasers - Hand-held Sharpener

My first sharpeners didn’t have a container for shavings, so I had to carry one. Usually a small, empty wide-mouth jar. The sharpeners were usually small enough to fit into the wide-mouth jar.

Back then, they worked extremely well. Prismacolor pencils were still made with a solid wood casing that could withstand sharpening without breaking or cracking. I never once considered a different sharpener, especially since I was doing a lot of work out of the studio. Usually at horse shows.

The bonus was that if I happened lose or break a sharpener, it was no big deal. I just went and bought another!

Mechanical Sharpeners

I currently use an old-fashioned crank sharpener by Apsco. The kind that used to be in every classroom in every public school. I like this sharpener because it’s solid, is designed to take pencils of different sizes, and it sharpens like a dream.

It’s easy to clean, too. Just turn the shaving container a quarter turn, slide it off the blades, and empty it.

To keep the blades sharp and functioning properly, I sharpen lead pencils once in a while to remove wax and other colored pencil debris.

Electric Sharpeners

A few years ago, I had a battery operated, which made it ideal for working away from the studio. I used that Stanley Bostitch Model BPS10 everywhere.  It fit into the laptop carrier I used to tote art supplies, and it was quiet enough to use almost anywhere I wanted to draw.

It used four AA batteries and had a good-sized, easy-to-empty shavings tray.

Amazingly, it is still available for only $10.99 directly from Bostitch.

I also used a Panasonic Auto-Stop KP-310. The power cord was long enough to also make this compact sharpener good for drawing away from home if I was going to be in a place with access to electricity.

It sharpened extremely well, and had an auto-stop function, so it didn’t sharpen pencils beyond an ideal point.

But perhaps the best thing about this sharpener was the suction cup feet on the bottom. They kept the sharpener from moving backward when I used it. No need to steady the sharpener with one hand.

This sharpener is no longer available new, but I did find several listings at Amazon and eBay.  If you’re looking for a good, reliable, and inexpensive electric sharpener, this is a good place to begin.

Colored Pencil Erasers

Reader Question:

What is the best eraser for colored pencils?

Carrie’s Answer:

There isn’t a good eraser for colored pencils. Colored pencils are either wax-based or oil-based, so most “normal erasers” tend to smear the color around rather than remove it.

Some companies make colored pencils that can be erased, but these are not recommended for fine art use, or for any art you want to last. However, if you use them for sketching, you can use almost any standard eraser on them.

Here are some erasers I’ve tried…. for better or worse.

Click Erasers

What I refer to as click erasers are similar to mechanical pencils. The eraser is a long, round “tube” and fits into a plastic, pencil-like holder. The eraser is “advanced” by clicking a mechanism at the top of the barrel, hence my name for them.

Here are my click erasers.

Questions about Colored Pencil Sharpeners and Erasers - Click Erasers

The lighter blue one is a Pentel Clic Eraser ZE22. The darker pencil is a very old Faber-Castell Jet Eraser.

Refills come in various hardnesses. It’s helpful to have more than one eraser, each with a different hardness of eraser refill.

These erasers are stiff enough to sharpen with a blade if you want to make a very fine point. You can also shape them with an emery board or sand paper.

Kneaded Eraser

Kneaded erasers are pliable, which means you can shape them into various forms, roll them into points, or tear off pieces for small work.

Questions about Colored Pencil Sharpeners and Erasers - Kneaded Eraser

I’ve used kneaded erasers, but they’re better suited to graphite than colored pencil.  They work wonders for graphite, but aren’t very effective for colored pencils.

Electric Erasers

My husband has a couple of old electric erasers that work extremely well with my colored pencils. He worked on one drawing that I thought was hopeless and was able to remove enough color to allow me to finish the drawing.

I’ve used them once or twice myself, but confess that I’m not comfortable with them. There’s just too much risk of scuffing the paper. They could be extremely useful with enough practice, but I work with such a light drawing hand that I see no reason to spend the time to get proficient with an electric eraser.

If you’re more daring with electric tools, you might try an electric eraser, though. A lot of colored pencil artists swear by them.

My Favorite Erasing Tools Aren’t Erasers

When I really want to remove color, I don’t reach for an eraser.

Instead, I use mounting putty (shown below,) or transparent tape.

Mounting putty is a lot like a kneaded eraser, but it’s sticky enough to remove wax- or oil-based colored pencils. You can’t lift all of the color, but you’ll be able to remove enough to work over it.

The real beauty of mounting putty is that you can shape it, clean it by kneading it, and reuse it for a long time.

Transparent tape is very good at lifting color, and it’s very easy to use. Just tear off a piece, press it lightly to the color you want to lighten, and lift carefully.

The only real disadvantages to using tape to erase is that you can tear the paper if you’re not careful, and it can leave the paper feeling a little bit slick. My suggestion is to use it as a last resort, and use it sparingly.

Questions about Colored Pencil Sharpeners and Erasers - Tape

For tips on using mounting putty and tape, read 2 Neat Tricks for Erasing or “Lifting” Color from Colored Pencil Drawings on EmptyEasel.

Conclusion

There you have it. My favorite colored pencil sharpeners and erasers.

As I said before, these aren’t the only sharpeners and erasers available, but they are the ones with which I have experience. They may be ideal for you, but if not, I at least hope I’ve given you a good place to begin looking!

Derwent Watercolor Pencils – My Review

I’ve been hearing a lot of good things about Derwent watercolor pencils. After using the Derwent watercolor pencils for a few months, it’s time for a review.

Derwent Watercolor Pencils Review

About Derwent Watercolor Pencils

I purchased a set of 12 colors, along with a pad of Canson L’Aquarelle 140 lb hot press watercolor paper at Hobby Lobby. The pencils retailed at $25.99 and the paper at $24.99, but I used a 40% coupon on both items.

TIP: If you shop regularly at Hobby Lobby, go online and print their 40% off coupon. You can use it only once and it applies only to the most expensive item you buy (not the entire purchase,) but it’s a great way to get new supplies and a good deal.

Since I did most of my work on the watercolor paper, I’ll share my thoughts on that, as well.

Derwent Watercolor Pencils - Set of 12

Derwent Watercolor Pencils: My Review

Derwent packages their tins with a shrink wrap cover inside the tin, so you can remove the tin’s lid and see the pencils before you buy them. A very helpful feature if you buy retail from a brick-and-mortar store.

The pencils are stamped in easy-to-read silver, with color names and color numbers clearly visible. They come pre-sharpened, and with the approximate colors on the end of the pencil.

Approximate because they aren’t all 100% accurate. It’s a good idea to make color swatches to see the actual color once you buy the pencils.

Derwent Watercolor Pencils in the Tin

Most of the pencils in my set were in excellent shape and ready to use. Only the Burnt Ochre broke when I sharpened it the first time, but that gave me an opportunity to test Derwent’s customer support process. My understanding before buying these pencils that the Derwent company is very quality conscious and is quick to replace defective stock.

I found that to be true. I emailed the company and told them about the set I’d purchased and the pencil with the broken pigment core.

True to expectation, they emailed me back within a few days and offered to replace the pencil if I wished. I could still use the pencil—yes, even the broken pigment core—so I didn’t ask for a replacement, but it’s good know they were so willing to help me.

Lightfast Ratings

Derwent is a British company, so they use the Blue Wool Scale for lightfast testing.

Two identical dye samples are created. One sample is placed in darkness and one in the equivalent of sunlight for three months. A standard test card is also put in the same lighting conditions and the samples are then compared.

Fading is rated on a scale of 0 to 8, with 0 being the poorest and 8 the highest. A rating of 8 signifies a color that doesn’t fade at all and can be considered permanent.

Of the twelve colors in the 12-pencil set, four have an “8” rating, one is rated “7”, two are rated “6,” and the other five are 5 or below. Most professional artists either don’t use any color rated 5 or less for fine art or they don’t sell the originals. Fading colors can be used to create artwork if all you plan to do is sell reproductions.

However, these ratings are all for dry pigment. They apply only if you don’t use water to activate the color.

Since the purpose of watercolor pencils is to use them wet, I set up my own lightfast test.

My Lightfast Test

I made a swatch of color for each of the pencils. Each swatch is labeled with the color name, the number, and the Blue Wool rating (in parentheses.) At the bottom of the page is information on the pencil, the paper, and the test I started the test.

This swatch shows the dry color.

Derwent Watercolor Pencils - Lightfast Test Dry

Next, I activated half of each swatch with water.

This also gives you a good idea of how will the strokes disappear with a minimum of blending. I have found that strokes disappear entirely with a few more strokes of a wet brush, or if you use more water.

Derwent Watercolor Pencils - Lightfast Test Wet

When the samples were dry, I covered the center portion with a piece of opaque paper and taped it in a south-facing window.

4-Week Results

This is the result after four weeks. Dry pencil on the right, water-activated on the left. The only color that appeared to have faded at all was the Imperial Purple (rated 4,) and the fading wasn’t obvious. The fact of the matter is that the ball point pen I used to label the test faded far worse than the colors.

Derwent Watercolor Pencil Test 4 Weeks

8-Week Results

The 8-week check looked like this. I don’t know about you, but I didn’t see much difference. That was encouraging, to say the least.

Back into the window for the test sheet.

Derwent Watercolor Pencil Test 8 Weeks

12-Week Results

I checked them again at the 12-week mark and this is what I found.

Derwent Watercolor Pencil Test 12 Weeks

There does appear to be some dulling of the color, but it’s not significant.

However, I need to make two points about my test.

One, it’s in no way scientific or conclusive. We had a lot of gray days this spring, so the exposure of the colors may not have been as strong as it could have been.

Two, I didn’t use very much water to activate the color. The more water you use, the more likely the colors are to become fugitive.

However, given my results, I’d have no difficulties using all of these colors (except maybe the 4-rated and less colors) for fine art if I didn’t plan to sell the original work.

Drawing with Derwent Watercolor Pencils

From the first stroke to the last, these pencils were a delight to use, even on a paper that I was previously unfamiliar with. Color goes on with ease, even with light pressure. They have a soft almost creamy feel when used dry. Not quite as soft as Prismacolor, but much softer than Faber-Castell Polychromos, for example.

They’re also fun to use when you apply color wet. I did a lot of work by wetting a brush, stroking the brush across the sharpened pencil, then brushing the color onto wet or dry paper.

Remember I mentioned that broken pigment core? I wasn’t too upset because pieces of pigment core can be dissolved in warm water to create liquid pigment. It’s a great way to blend colors before putting them on paper.

I’ve drawn several pieces on different types of paper. I’ve also used them wet and dry, and tried several different ways to use them wet. As I prepare this post for publication, I’m working on a sky and cloud study for a tutorial, so you can see how they perform in action.

What Do I Think of the Derwent Watercolor Pencils?

I’m a little disappointed so many of them are fugitive. The pencils are so easy to use dry and wet that it’s a shame five of them are too fugitive for my liking.

But that is the only strike I have against them.

Colors lay-down very smooth, the pencils are highly pigmented. The earth tones, blues, and greens are perfect for landscape and animal art, even in just the 12-pencil set.

Time will tell on the fade rate, but I have no objections to using all the colors for sketching and studies, and will be using the lightfast colors for finished pieces.

So if you want to try watercolor pencils, but don’t have a lot of money to spend, you can hardly go wrong with a small set of these.

And What about the Canson L’Aquarelle Paper?

I didn’t forget!

Most of the work I did with Derwent Watercolour Pencils was on Canson L’Aquarelle Watercolor Paper. I was as pleased with the paper as with the pencils. It’s very much like Stonehenge Aqua in feel, and performs pretty much the same way, too.

I bought 140lb hot press because it’s smoother than cold press watercolor paper, so is more suited to colored pencils. The 9×12 inch pad contains 25 sheets, so it’s about a dollar a sheet. I cut the sheets in half for my small works.

It would also be ideal for ACEO art, since it’s heavy enough to withstand the use of water.

The only thing I haven’t yet tried with it is dry drawing. As soft to the touch and smooth as it is, I have no doubts it will perform well for that application as well.

Are Prismacolors Right for You?

There’s been a lot of back-and-forth about Prismacolor pencils over the last several years. Some artists love them; some hate them. After all the debating, you have only one question. Are Prismacolors right for you or not?

Are Prismacolors Right for You

Last week, I shared reasons you might want to try colored pencils.

This week, it seems appropriate to answer some of the more common questions about Prismacolor pencils, and give you tips for deciding whether or not Prismacolor pencils are right for you.

A Little Bit of History

I always like to provide a little background for discussions like this, because background can provide insight into present day problems. Don’t worry. It’s going to be brief and personal.

I started using Prismacolors back in the 1990s, when they were Berol Prismacolor. There was no better pencil so widely available (in the US at least) and at reasonable prices. They were a high-quality pencil and problems like breaking leads, split casings, and off-center pigment cores were unheard of.

At least I never heard of them.

I had no problems with the pencils. They were perfect for the work I was doing, which was almost exclusively horse portraits.

Sometime since then, Prismacolor changed hands. Berol sold the brand to Sanford, which subsequently sold the brand to Newell-Rubbermaid. Manufacturing changed location and artists began having problems shortly afterward.

I used Prismacolor throughout all those changes, and to be honest, I had very few problems with them.

One batch of Indigo Blue pencils were so gritty I couldn’t use them.

Some pencils did break during sharpening or drawing, and there were a few that broke so much, they were useless.

I did discover (or maybe started noticing is a better way to say it) that quite a few pencils had off-center pigment cores, and I learned still later that sharpening problems often result from off-center cores.

More recently, I started finding pencils that were warped. Fortunately, I usually buy open stock from a local suppler, and learned how to check for warped pencils, so that problem was solved.

But overall, I’ve had relatively few problems with Prismacolor pencils.

Then came the spring of 2017.

The Case of the Fugitive Pencils

Early in 2017, I started hearing a word that aroused concern. Lightfastness. Specifically, the poor lightfast ratings of many Prismacolor pencils.

I believe I mentioned that I was using colored pencils almost exclusively for portraits, right? Portraits people were paying a good amount of money for.
I’d also started doing landscapes, which I hoped to sell.

So it was discouraging (to say the least) to discover that some of my favorite blues and greens, as well as a number of other colors, were fugitve. They faded over time, even in the best conditions.

How permanent were all those portraits I’d created? Would I start hearing from clients about disappearing portraits? It still gives me a twinge of concern thinking those thoughts!

So I went through my pencils, and sorted out all the fugitive colors. The pile of safe colors was almost the same size as the pile of fugitive colors, but I confess I erred on the side of caution. I threw out everything rated III, IV, or V.

I still use the other colors and I still love the way they go onto paper and the effects I can get. I also still miss colors like Sky Blue Light, Light Cerulean Blue, and Limepeel.

But I refuse to use them for anything except sketching and filling in my monthly habit tracker.

All of That to Say This….

What does that mean to you?

It means that what I’m about to say is being said from the standpoint of personal experience. Nothing more, nothing less.

You want to know if it’s safe to use Prismacolor pencils or not, and I’m here to tell you it is.

Depending on what you want to do with your art.

Reasons to Use Prismacolor

So how can you know if Prismacolors are good deal or not?

You Color for Fun and Relaxation

If adult coloring books are your thing, then by all means invest in that full set of Prismacolor pencils.

I don’t do very much in the adult coloring book line—I don’t have much time, to be honest—but I have read plenty of articles about the subject written by artists who do. Almost to the artist, they recommend Prismacolor because of the smooth color lay down, wide variety of colors, reasonable cost, and availability.

Are Prismacolors Right for You - Adult Coloring Pages

I do, too, and for all the same reasons.

In fact, when I doodle with a coloring page, I often use those fugitive colors.

You’re Crafty

You’re making greeting cards, coloring in adult coloring books, or doing crafty things. Color permanence doesn’t concern you.

Color selection, ease of use, and price do.

Prismacolors are probably your best choice. There are over 150 colors altogether. They lay down like a dream, and blend beautifully. You can get them almost anywhere in the United States, and in most cases they’re a good value.

Are Prismacolors Right for You - You're Crafty

They’re also artist-grade, which means pigment quality is high. That means you’ll get a lot more color per pencil than you’d get if you purchased student-grade pencils.

You’re New to Colored Pencils

You think you’ll enjoy them, but you don’t know. You’re not interested—right now—in making art for sale. You just want to draw.

You also don’t want to spend an-arm-and-a-leg on something you may not enjoy.

But you want to try the medium with the best quality tools you can find.

Prismacolor is the answer. They offer students and beginning artists the best combination of quality and value around. Yes there are better pencils, but they’re more expensive.

Are Prismacolors Right for You - You're New to Colored Pencils

And there are cheaper pencils, but they’re lower quality. Even if you get them at a bargain basement price, you may soon find they don’t put much color on the paper or are a struggle to use for other reasons.

Prismacolor is, in my opinion, the only way to go if this describes you.

You Make Fine Art, but Sell Reproductions, Not Originals

The fact of the matter is, you often keep your originals yourself because you like them so much, or you give them to family members or friends. What you sell are reproductions.

Most reproductions are made with lightfast inks, so the lightfastness of the pencils does not matter. At. All.

Use every pencil in the set, lightfast and not-so-lightfast. Get top-notch photographs or scans of the finished pieces, and sell reproductions to your heart’s content!

Then give the original pieces to whomever you like, or hang them on your own walls.

Just make sure to advise friends and family to frame those works of art under UV resistant glass and never, never, NEVER hang the art in direct sunlight.

So Are Prismacolors Right for You?

Prismacolor pencils are perfect for uses like those described above, as well as many others I didn’t touch upon.

By the way, the same applies if you make art mostly to teach others.

In other words, if you don’t care to sell your originals, it doesn’t really matter whether they fade away with time or not. It seems a shame to me to put that kind of time into something that will fade whether you sell it or not, but it’s really up to you, the artist.

Have a question about Prismacolor pencils I didn’t cover? Click here to ask me by email.

5 Colored Pencil Questions

Today’s colored pencil questions concern blending, color matching, and Prismacolor alternatives.

5 Colored Pencil Questions

Following are today’s questions.

Remember that if you have a question, you can always email it to me. I try to answer every email I get personally. Your question could be the inspiration for a blog post!

Answers to 5 Colored Pencil Questions

I’m not sure which pencils are blend-able, and don’t want to keep buying pencils that don’t achieve this. Help!

Most colored pencils are blendable, even if all you can do is layer them.

But the better the pencil, the more likely it is to be blend-able in ways other than by layering.

Most pencils can be blended with solvents such as odorless mineral spirits or turpentine. Different brands—and sometimes different colors—may react differently, so you need to test them on scrap paper first.

Most pencils can also be blended by burnishing.  You can use either a colored pencil or a colorless blender (a colored pencil without color) to burnish, and most of the pencils I’ve used can be burnished. It’s just takes more effort with some brands than others.

Is there a solution blender available that doesn’t have fumes? I’m asthmatic and very sensitive to odors.

Fumes and odors are not always the same thing. All odors are detectable by your nose. You can smell them.

But there are fumes that are odorless. So you can have an odorless solvent, and still have fumes. That’s why it’s so important to use any solvent with caution. Be smart!

Odorless mineral spirits and similar solvents are free from odors. Some are natural solvents, and some are not.

I’m not asthmatic or sensitive to odors, so can’t advise you from personal experience. So I suggest is you speak with other artists who are sensitive to odors and see what they recommend. Lisa Clough of Lachri Fine Art is one such artist, and I know from listening to her live streams, that many in her audience also use odorless solvents.

You might also contact Lisa and John at Sharpened Artist Podcast. They’re always looking for topics for their weekly podcast about all things colored pencil. If they haven’t already talked about solvents, you may provide the topic for the next podcast!

Beyond that, consult your doctor or healthcare provider.

I am tired of the Prismacolor Premier because of their fragility and high waxy content. Just too many problems to justify the expense. How are Derwent, Faber Castell in this regard?

If you want pencils that aren’t waxy, you may want to take a look at oil-based pencils. There aren’t as many brands to choose from, but there are three that I recommend. Faber-Castell Polychromos, Lyra Rembrandt, and Koh-I-Nor Polycolor. I do use Faber-Castell Polychromos, and have a set of Koh-I-Nor Progresso, and believe other Koh-I-Nor products are also high quality.

As for the two brands you named specifically:

Faber-Castell Polychromos

Faber-Castell Polychromos pencils are oil-based. They do contain a limited amount of wax, but the primary binder is oil. Usually vegetable oil. You will have no problems (or very few) with wax bloom or wax build up with these pencils.

I’m very happy with the Polychromos, and find myself reaching for them more than the Prismacolor pencils. They don’t have quite as many earth tones as I’d like (brown is my favorite color,) but most of the blues and greens are perfect for animals and landscapes.

They can be pricey unless you buy them from Dick Blick or some other online supplier, but the price is well worth it, in my opinion.

Derwent

Derwent are wax-based, but not as waxy as Prismacolor pencils. I’ve heard very good reports about the Derwent Coloursoft and Procolour pencils, as well as the Artists line of colored pencils.

At the moment, the only Derwent’s I use are the watercolor pencils, so they may not be of any help to you.

However, they draw very well dry, so they’re good for traditional drawing methods. I’m very pleased with the set I have, which is only 12 colors. They’re well-made and feel solid in my hand. I’ve used them dry, and with water, and have been very happy with them.

They’re reasonably priced, too. I paid a little under $20 for a set of 12 at Hobby Lobby. Use the 40% off coupon, and they’re a great value.

My recommendation? If you can find any of these (or other pencils) in open stock in stores, buy a few and try them. What works for me and my methods may not work for you and your methods. So try as many as you can.

I have just started using pencils after years with oils. I like dramatic pictures so I’m using black paper. Once I’ve put in a starter coat of white for flower petals I’m getting resistance to later coats. I’m using Caran D’ache supracolour.

I can’t speak about Caran d’Ache Supracolour pencils, since I’ve never used them.

But the problem sounds more like a paper problem. If the paper is too smooth or slick, it will not take very many layers of color before you start to experience the type of resistance described in the question.

So the first thing I’d suggest is to try a different paper. I like Canson Mi-Teintes for colored pencil, but make sure to use the back. It’s the smoothest and behaves best with colored pencil unless you want a lot of texture.

Second, I’d ordinarily suggest that you use a harder pencil like Caran d’Ache Pablo or Prismacolor Verithin for the white under drawing. But Supracolour are a watercolor pencil, so they are going to be harder than other pencils.

In addition, you won’t want to layer Supracolour (or any watercolor pencil) over a traditional colored pencil, because it may not stick.

There are a couple of other things you might try.

Draw the Black Background

Since you’re using a watercolor pencil, paint the background with a combination of black and other dark colors. You’ll get a black background that’s richer than plain black paper.

Canson Mi-Teintes and Stonehenge papers both stand up well to limited amounts of water.

You might also try painting the white under drawing with white watercolor pencil. That will preserve the tooth, and that may solve your problem.

So the only other thing I can suggest is to try a very light coat of a workable fixative made for colored pencils over the under drawing, then try layering color over that. This, however, is a last resort.

I am a brand new color pencil person and have been working with Darrel Tank’s online classes. He does not offer much as regards color pencils and uses Prismacolor Col-erase. Is there a good tool for matching between brands?

Many manufacturers offer color charts for their colored pencil lines. You should be able to match colors with reasonable accuracy by comparing color charts.

Beyond that, my best suggestion is to find a store that carries open stock and physically compare the colors.

Conclusion

I hope my answers to these colored pencil questions have helped you. Or at least pointed you in the right direction.

Of course, the real answer to most questions about colored pencils (or any art medium,) is experimentation. Even if the experiments don’t work, the answers are much more likely to “stick” in your mind if you try for yourself.

At least that’s the way it works for me.

Want to learn more?

I also recently answered four reader questions in an EmptyEasel post.

Readers wanted to know whether or not they could use White Out or correction tape on colored pencil pieces, suggestions on the best illustration board, information on white specks left after spraying with fixative, and how to draw like an expert.

Drawing on Colored Papers to Finish Faster

Looking for an easy way to complete colored pencil work faster? Have you considered drawing on colored papers?

If not, you should.

Drawing on Colored Papers to Finish Faster

One of the most frequent complaints about colored pencil as a medium is the amount of time needed to finish a piece. If the drawing is very large or if you work in a representational style, you can easily spend weeks on a single project.

Maybe even months.

Blending with rubbing alcohol or turpentine are two ways to create layers of vibrant, saturated color quickly, but there’s an even more basic method you might want to consider.

Drawing on Colored Papers to Reduce Drawing Time

Using a colored support is a great way to jump start your next colored pencil project. If you choose a color that provides a base color or a base complementary color to most of the drawing, you won’t need to draw that base as you would if you were to do the same drawing on white paper.

Art papers and museum quality mat boards are available in an array of colors from pastel tints to bright primaries.

An artist with an adventurous streak could spend a year doing the same drawing over and over on different colors and never use the same color twice.

Those two factors alone give you an idea of how  much time you can save by drawing on colored paper. Let’s take a look at a few more.

Drawing on colored papers is a great way to set a mood from the start.

Let’s say you want to depict a landscape on a rainy day. You love the light of a gray day and those deeply saturated colors make you itch to draw them.

If you work on white paper, you’ll use a lot of grays and spend a lot of time creating the atmosphere of your subject on a gray day.

Choose light gray or light gray-green paper, on the other hand, and more than half the work is done before you put pencil to paper. Gray paper provides an excellent base for a gray sky or misty air with very little work. Gray-green paper is a good base for the greens in a landscape. Either way, you can skip most of the grays in your pencil box and focus on the subject.

Add a little texture to make color even more time saving.

If you choose a surface with a bit of texture as I did for West of Bazaar below, you can save even more time and still get great results by letting the tooth do some of the work for you. Especially if you’re drawing a rainy landscape or other subject with a soft focus look.

Drawing on Colored Papers - West of Bazaar

The same scene drawn on white paper, blue paper, or even a brighter paper, would produce different results, and create different moods.

August Morning in Kansas (below) was drawn on sanded art paper. Most sanded art papers are some shade of tan, though Uart now makes a dark gray version, as well.

The tooth of the paper and the color perfectly suited my idea for the hazy, hot August morning I wanted to draw. I could have gotten much the same results with a cream, gray or white paper, but it would have taken more time and effort.

Drawing on Colored Papers - August Morning in Kansas

August Morning in Kansas was my contribution to Ann Kullberg’s DRAW Landscapes book*. The book includes a step-by-step tutorial on this piece.

Colored paper can provide a base color or middle values.

This drawing of Blizzard Babe was drawn on light gray mat board. The gray color provided an ideal foundation for this light gray filly and her black gear.

It also worked very well with the blue accents, and was a good foil for the flesh tones.

But the real time saver came in painting the blanket. Or rather, what I didn’t have to paint. Most of the work necessary involved adding highlights and reflected light, and the blue trim. Everything else? That’s the color of the mat board!

Drawing on Colored Papers Blizzard Babe

For Buckles & Belts in Colored Pencil, I chose light brown mat board with a neutral tint. The color provided a natural highlight color for the horse. It was also a great base color for all of the other colors in the horse’s coat.

I had to draw the facial marking and accent the eye and buckles, but did very little with the background. A light glaze of light blue to create the cool tint of a distant sky and it was done.

Since I painted this piece using the umber under drawing method, beginning with a surface that was already close to the middle values allowed me to concentrate on the shadows and darker middle values. A considerable time-saver for a complex subject like this.

Drawing on Colored Papers Buckles & Belts

Colored papers improve sketching speed by providing a second (or third color) for limited palette sketches or studies.

I’ve been drawing outside a lot.

Or looking through a window to draw something outside.

Many of my sketching happens while in the car, when I don’t have all of my pencils. Most of the time, I grab a handful of pencils when I leave the house and do limited-palette sketches and studies.

But even with just one or two pencils, I can make a realistic sketch in much less time by working on colored paper.

This drawing, for example. I used one brown pencil on Fawn Stonehenge paper to create this tree study in 30 minutes or less. I could have added a white pencil to draw highlights and made the drawing even more three-dimensional.

Drawing on Colored Papers - Plein Air Drawing

Drawing on Colored Papers is A Great Time Saver

No matter how you work or what you prefer to draw, drawing on colored papers can save you a ton of time and help you finish each piece faster. And you know what that means.

You can finish more pieces!

And isn’t that a goal to which we all aspire?

*Affiliate Link

Do Fading Colors Still Fade Under Non-Fading Colors

When it comes to colored pencils, do fading colors still fade under non-fading colors?

A reader recently asked if fading colors would fade if used under non-fading colors. Since I sometimes wonder that myself—it’s such a shame not to be able to use all those lovely colors that are also fading—the question struck a chord.

That kind of information may be available online, but I couldn’t find it, so I decided to find out for myself.

Do Fading Colors Still Fade Under Non-Fading Colors

I’m already in the middle of a couple of color swatch tests. One of them just happens to include testing a background which I drew with fading and non-fading colors. Both tests are being conducted in my usual manner: making color swatches and exposing them to unfiltered sunlight for an extended period of time.

Read An Easy Way to Test Colored Pencil Lightfastness.

Color Swatch Test

One of the tests is a basic personal test of some of my favorite Prismacolor colors that rate poorly according to Prismacolor. I wanted to find out if they really were as fugitive as they’re reported to be. It’s a straight forward test of color swatches and won’t help us much in answering today’s question.

I made the swatches, then covered half of the page with opaque paper and put it in south-facing window.

The first test began January 5, 2018, and is scheduled for review March 30.

March 30, 2018 Update: Of the seven colors on this test, three are visibly faded. Orange is the most faded. Light Cerulean Blue and Limepeel are clearly faded, but not as much as the orange.

Sky Blue Light faded, as well, but it’s not as obvious as the others. Perhaps because it’s such a light color to begin with.

The other colors—True Blue, Non Photo Blue, and Canary Yellow—show very little fading.

I’m particularly disappointed in the Limepeel. That used to be one of my favorite greens!

It’s been twelve weeks since this test began and I could have considered it finished. But I decided to continue for another few weeks. Just to see what happens.

Partially Finished Painting

The second test is a bokeh background I drew last year before pulling some of those favorite colors out of my toolbox. I mixed fading and non-fading colors to draw the background. This test will help us find an answer to the reader’s question.

Colors used on this painting are listed below, along with their lightfast rating.

Color Rating Color Rating
Dark Brown I Cream II
Dark Green I Indigo Blue II
Goldenrod I Jasmine II
Sepia I Olive Green II
Sienna Brown I Pumpkin Orange II
Marine Green III Sand II
Limepeel V Pumpkin Orange II

Only two colors are suspect (much to my surprise!). Marine Green and Limepeel. Since both are sandwiched between more lightfast colors, this will be a good test, and should provide some insight into the reader’s question.

Do Fading Colors Still Fade Under Non-Fading Colors - Bokeh Test

This test began January 25, 2018. The first review (4 weeks) was March 22, 2018, and I saw no visible fading. That was very encouraging!

2018.04.19—Checked the drawing. Again, I saw no clear evidence of fading. Hopes are starting to rise. Maybe I can finish this one after all.

Do Fading Colors Still Fade Under Non-Fading Colors–The Tests

Good as those tests might be, I decided it was best to create new tests designed for this purpose. The tests were conducted on Bristol Vellum. I tested three colors of each of the primaries, and used Prismacolor Soft Core pencils because they’re among the most popular pencils (and they’re what I had available.)

Prismacolor rates their colors by five categories as follows:

I – Excellent

II – Very Good

III – Good

IV – Fair

V – Poor

Last year, I removed all the colors with a III rating or lower because that was easier than keeping all the colors together and trying remember which were fading and which weren’t. But I still have some of those fugitive colors.

For the purposes of these tests, I selected a I, III, and V from each of the three primary color categories. In one test, I layered the two lower rated colors first, then layered the top-rated color over them. For the second test, the top-rated color was beneath the other two.

Each color was put on the paper with medium pressure or higher. I was more interested in getting a good amount of color on the paper than with beautiful layering.

Color Testing – Greens

Limepeel is rated at V by Prismacolor. That’s a poor rating and means the color fades fairly quickly. The top bar below is Limepeel.

The second color is Spring Green, which is rated III (good) by Prismacolor.

I shaded both colors onto the sample paper.

Then I shaded a block of Dark Green (rated I – excellent) over both.

Do Fading Colors Still Fade Under Non-Fading Colors - Green Color Test 1

For the second phase, I shaded a bar of Dark Green onto the paper, then layered Limepeel (left) and Spring Green over the Dark Green with heavier pressure. Not quite burnishing, but pretty close.

Do Fading Colors Still Fade Under Non-Fading Colors - Green Color Test 2

Color Testing – Blues

I did the same thing with three shades of blue. I chose Powder Blue (I), Non-Photo Blue (III), and Ultramarine Blue (V).

First, the fading colors under the non-fading color.

Do Fading Colors Still Fade Under Non-Fading Colors - Blue Color Test 1

Then the fading colors over the non-fading color.

Do Fading Colors Still Fade Under Non-Fading Colors - Blue Color Test 2

Color Testing – Reds

And finally, the red colors; Crimson Lake (I), Pale Vermilion (III), and Poppy Red (V).

Fading colors under non-fading color.

Do Fading Colors Still Fade Under Non-Fading Colors - Red Color Test 1

Fading colors over non-fading color.

Do Fading Colors Still Fade Under Non-Fading Colors - Red Color Test 2

All three were put into the test window, which faces south and gets full sun all day. It will continue to get full sun until the trees leaf out, so the test samples should be properly exposed.

The test began on March 1.

March 29, 2018 Update: I examined the color test and the good news is that I saw no visible fading. The bad news is that we’ve had a lot of cloudy weather this March, so the results are inconclusive. I put the samples back into the window, and will give them another four weeks!

April 28, 2018 Update: I examined the color test and could see no visible fading after eight weeks. We did have some cloudy weather, but more sunshine than the first four weeks.

Conclusion

I seriously hope for positive results, especially from that bokeh background test.

But whatever happens, I will update this post each time I check the tests, including images for comparison. So stay tuned!

Choosing Colors for Outdoor Drawing

I’ve been developing  the habit of drawing outside for a couple of years, now. It began with the first Colored Pencil Plain Air Drawing Autumn Challenge in 2016. I talked about a lot of things related to plein air drawing back then, but there is one topic I neglected: Choosing colors for outdoor drawing.

That’s the subject of this week’s reader question.

Hi Carrie,

I like to work in the field sketching, [and] primarily do landscapes but also may do street scenes. I especially like travel sketching. Can you recommend which colors would be helpful to a minimum travel kit? I own so many colored pencils it is daunting to pick which colors to take without overloading.

Thanks,

Stephanie Reitmajer

Stephanie has asked an interesting question, and one most of us don’t think about all that often.

Choosing Colors for Outdoor Drawing

Choosing colors for outdoor drawing can be as simple or complex as you want to make it. As with most things about colored pencils and art, there is no “right way.”

But I can offer the following basic suggestions to get you started.

Choosing Colors for Outdoor Drawing

Try to plan for every conceivable possibility and you’ll soon be frustrating yourself needlessly. It would be better—and easier—to pack all your pencils, and be done with it!

Understanding what you’re most likely to see and what you’re most likely to draw, then planning for those things makes the process infinitely simpler.

The key to choosing colors for outdoor drawing is knowing what you’re most likely to draw

There’s a rule of thumb among writers (fiction and nonfiction) that the key to success is knowing who you’re writing for. When you know who is most likely to read your work, you can write for those people.

Believe it or not, the same rule of thumb applies to this question, and here’s how.

Stephanie mentioned the types of subjects she prefers drawing. Landscapes and street scenes.

Those are two broad categories that can cover a lot of territory, but knowing those categories helps Stephanie—and you and me—decide which colors to take on road trips and drawing outings.

How?

Colors like greens, blues, and earth tones appear in some form in most landscapes.

The range of colors may be broader for street scenes, but the same basic colors might apply.

So the first step in choosing colors for outdoor drawing is knowing yourself well enough to know what types of subjects you’re most likely to draw.

Understand your subject well enough to know what colors are mostly likely to appear in those subjects.

Next, understand those subjects well enough to know what basic colors are most common in those subjects.

Landscapes are relatively easy. Greens, blues, and earth tones. You can narrow those selections even further by knowing in advance what types of landscapes you’ll be seeing on the next trip.

I favor the Flint Hills as a subject, and in the spring, it usually looks like this.

Choosing Colors for Outdoor Drawing - Flint Hills Spring

In the Fall—and sometimes late summer—it looks more like this.

Choosing Colors for Outdoor Drawing - Flint Hills Fall

I would choose different colors in the spring than in the fall.

When choosing colors for outdoor drawing, focus on color families

Next, look at color families, not individual colors.

Red, blue, and yellow are the primary color families. With them, you can make every other color.

For a little more refinement, add the secondary color families of green, purple, and orange.

When it comes time to travel, choose the color families you use most often, and the colors that best suit your most likely subjects.

TIP: Sort your pencils by color families and store them in individual containers for ease of use. I use a lure box for my pencils. Each “well” contains a different color family.

Want just the bare bones colors? Try this selection method.

Two of each of the primary and secondary colors are all you really need. One cool yellow and one warm yellow, and so on. It doesn’t matter all that much which two colors you choose, just as long as you have a cool and warm from each color family.

Or you could try selecting one light value, one medium value, and one dark value from each of the color families.

Black and white are optional colors, especially if you plan to draw on colored paper. You may also want to include a few cool and warm grays.

TIP: Some brands of pencils offer special sets designed for specific subjects. Portrait sets or landscape sets, for example. These are ideal for traveling and drawing outside. If you’re not happy with the selection of colors that come in the set, save the tin or box they come in, and fill it with your own choices!

Choosing Colors for Drawing Specific Subjects

So you now have the basics. Want a little more information than that? Here are colors I’d consider for specific subjects.

Choose “earthy” colors for landscape drawing

I do a lot of landscape drawing,  and although I often take all my pencils, I sometimes want to travel light. Especially for short trips.

When I want to travel light, the best colors are “earthy” colors. The earthy blues and greens made by Faber-Castell, are ideal for landscape work. Derwent Drawing  pencils also have great colors for landscape artists.

Similar colors from any brand are most likely to work for landscape drawing.

I also suggest at least two browns one light and one dark (or one warm and one cool.) Browns are ideal for an umber under drawing or for layering with greens to keep the greens from going too bright. They’re also vital if you don’t have any earthy greens in your collection.

Following are my color selections. The colors listed below are the colors I reach for most often when drawing landscapes. Your preferences may differ.

Faber-Castell (any of their lines)

The following earth tones make a good selection of base colors.

Burnt Ochre
Cream
Indian Red
Ivory
Light Chrome Yellow
Light Yellow Ochre

Add these blues and greens to your outdoor colors.

Chrome Oxide Green
Chromium Green Opaque
Earth Green
Earth Green Yellowish
Green Gold
Juniper Green
Light Cobalt Turquoise
Light Phthalo Blue
Light Ultramarine
May Green
Olive Green Yellowish
Sky Blue

Prismacolor Premier

Burnt Ochre, Chartreuse, Chocolate, Dark Brown or Dark Umber, Dark Green, Goldenrod, Jade Green, Lemon Yellow, Light Umber, Mineral Orange, Sepia, Sienna Brown, Terra Cotta, Yellow Chartreuse. Any of the French Greys are excellent additions to an outdoor drawing palette.

Koh-I-Nor Progresso

Brown, Dark Blue, Dark Green, Hooker’s Green, Light Green, Light Ochre,  Sap Green, and Sky Blue. Light Grey is also a good color to have along.

I probably wouldn’t take all of these pencils unless I was planning a long trip. In that case, I’d pack everything.

The season also plays a role. For winter scenes, take fewer greens. For autumn, more bright colors and earth tones.

And of course adjust your palette appropriately for wooded scenes, seascapes, and so on.

Earth tones, a few blues, greens, reds, and yellows provide a good color base for drawing most kinds of animals

My landscape palette is heavy on greens, with a lot of earth tones.

For drawing animals, I reverse that balance so there are more earth tones. Those colors include all the browns from the lightest cream or ivory to the darkest brown.

Colors I’d add are colors like Prismacolor’s Black Grape, Black Cherry, Indigo Blue, Pumpkin Orange, or Mineral Orange or similar colors.

If you’re going to be drawing horses, cattle, or most wildlife, those colors (added to the lists above) provide all the colors you’re likely to need.

If birds, butterflies, or other such creatures are your subjects, you’ll need to add brighter blues, greens, yellow, and reds to your palette.

When choosing colors for street scenes, add a few brighter colors

This subject category is a little outside my area of expertise. However, if I were thinking about trying a street scene, I’d start with the list above. In many cases, the street scenes reflect the landscape around them.

In the southwest, streets are more likely to be earthy, warm colors, while streets in the Pacific Northwest will reflect more cool blues, greens, and grays.

There are also artificial things like street signs and vehicles to consider, so add brighter colors to your palette.

My Best Suggestion for Choosing Colors for Outdoor Drawing

A lot more could be said on color selection. After all, I haven’t said anything about still life, or floral drawing.

The best advice I can give you is to look at all of your pencils. If you have a relatively new set, which pencils are the shortest?

Those are the colors you use most often in the studio.

Chances are, they’re the colors you’re most likely to use while drawing outside.

My Favorite Colored Pencil Blending Methods

This week’s question comes from Denise, who wants to know my favorite colored pencil blending methods. Here’s Denise’s question.

Carrie, what product/techniques do YOU use to blend? My Prismacolor blending markers dry up within a few months. I have been tempted to soak the dry ones in 90% isoprophyl alcohol overnight.

Thank you for your question, Denise. Every colored pencil artist wants to learn more about blending methods!

But you’ve also opened the door to discussing the subject from a slightly different point of view.

My Favorite Colored Pencil Blending Methods

Before I share my favorite blending methods let me address the question of blending markers.

Just How Good are Blending Markers?

I tried a Prismacolor blending marker years ago. The marker had a wide, wedge-shaped tip on one end, and a narrow, pen-shaped tip on the other.

In all fairness, I have to say the marker did blend the colored pencil. The marker dissolved the wax binder enough to move the color around and made blending easier.

But I seem to recall the blended color dried streaky. It’s entirely possible I should have added more color after the paper was dry, but this happened in the early days, before I knew I could layer over blended color. I used the marker on a few drawings then stopped.

Another reason I stopped blending with the marker was that I had trouble remembering to clean the tips after every use. Color-stained tips made the marker useless for blending after a while.

I haven’t used a blending marker since. (Maybe it’s time to change that.)

In researching this article, I discovered that the only places the Prismacolor blender markers are still available is sites like Amazon and eBay. The official Prismacolor website makes no mention of colorless blending markers for colored pencils.

I also learned Prismacolor designed blender markers specifically for use with Prismacolor pencils, so the markers perform poorly with oil-based colored pencils.

My Favorite Colored Pencil Blending Methods - Art Markers

Are other colorless markers available?

Yes. Blick, Chartpak, Copic, Tombow, Touch Twin, and Winsor & Newton all include a colorless marker in their line of art markers. Even Prismacolor has a colorless art marker.

Can you blend colored pencils with them?

I don’t know.

TIP: If you decide to soak dried out blending markers with rubbing alcohol, check the markers first, and see what medium they’re using as the solvent. Make sure it’s compatible with regular rubbing alcohol.

My Favorite Colored Pencil Blending Methods - Colored Pencils

So What are My Favorite Colored Pencil Blending Methods?

My favorite blending methods fall into three basic categories: Visual blending, dry blending, and solvent blending.

Visual blending is the most organic and automatic of all the blending methods available.

And you do visual blending without thinking about it. How? Just by the way you put color on the paper.

I generally draw with light pressure and build up color through several layers and different colors.

Light passes through all the layers, strikes the paper, and bounces back. My eye sees the colors and blends them visually. But when I’m careful in layering colors, I don’t need to blend in any other way.

My Favorite Colored Pencil Blending Methods - Visual Blending

Dry blending doesn’t have fumes and I don’t need to wait for the paper to dry.

But I’m not always careful. I become tired or rush things, and end up drawing uneven color layers. When that happens, I need to blend using a different method.

My preference is dry blending, because I can dry blend while drawing, and I don’t have to wait for the paper to dry.

If I need a light blend or just want to smooth out the color a little, I blend with a piece of paper towel or bath tissue. This method doesn’t do well with multiple layers, but if you just need to smooth one layer before adding the next, it’s ideal.

My Favorite Colored Pencil Blending Methods - Dry Blending

Another method of dry blending is burnishing. When I burnish, I press very hard on the paper, and grind the color deep into the tooth of the paper. You can use a colorless blender for this if you don’t want to change the colors you’ve already used.

My Favorite Colored Pencil Blending Methods - Colorless Blenders

But you can also burnish with other colored pencils. Lighter colors tint whatever is already on the paper. Darker colors make it darker, but may also nearly completely hide it.

Since burnishing presses down the tooth of the paper as well as “grinding the colors together,” it’s best not to burnish until near the end of the drawing.

For deep blending, my favorite blending method is painting mediums.

When nothing else works or when it’s not practical to blend with the methods I’ve already described, I blend with a solvent.

My Favorite Colored Pencil Blending Methods - Solvent Blending

Read Blending Colored Pencil with Painting Solvents.

Any kind of odorless mineral spirits can be used for blending colored pencils, if it’s tested for art uses. All solvents may perform the same, but may not be archival, and that’s especially important if you’re doing fine art that you want to sell to buyers.

I use turpentine right now, because that’s what I have, but I have to blend outside and leave drawings outside to air before continuing work. So I’ll be getting an odorless solvent for indoor use.

WARNING: Just because a solvent is odorless does NOT mean it has no fumes. You still need to use it wisely. Keep it capped when you’re not blending, and work in a well-ventilated area.

I have used rubbing alcohol in the past, because it breaks down the wax binder in colored pencils, so you can blend with it. It doesn’t blend as completely as odorless mineral spirits, but it can be effective.

However, it is not recommended because it’s untested for permanence in fine art applications.  I haven’t tested it, either, so I no longer recommend it wholeheartedly.

My Favorite Colored Pencil Blending Methods - Colored Pencils 2

Conclusion

Those are not only my favorite colored pencil blending methods; they’re the only blending methods I use right now.

And I generally use them in the order listed above.

My goal with every drawing is to blend by layering colors as much as possible, and dry blend when necessary. I use solvents when I need to speed up the process, or when I’ve made a mistake nothing else will fix.

What about you? What’s your favorite blending method and how do you use it?

Faber-Castell Polychromos Review

I’ve been using them alone and in combination with other pencils long enough! It’s time for my Faber-Castell Polychromos Review.

Faber-Castell Polychromos Review

My New Polychromos Pencils

This spring, my husband purchased a 120-pencil set of Polychromos for me. He was in favor of buying the premium set in the wood box because that’s just the kind of person he is. I was more interested in the pencils themselves, so he agreed to the 120 pencils in the tin. We made our purchase through Dick Blick, but Polychromos are also available from other suppliers, online and off-line.

Faber-Castell Polychromos Review

The pencils arrived well-packaged. The tin itself was enclosed in a cardboard box that I store them in. The tin has actually been out of the box only a few times. Even when I use them, I open the cardboard box, then the tin, then arrange the trays of pencils so they’re all available.

When I’m finished, the tin and box and all gets put away, so the pencils remain in good shape.

The pencils are well-made, and balanced. They feel good in my hand: Solid and straight. They even smell good (for pencils.)

Pigment cores are centered in the wood casing, and so far, I’ve had no problems with breakage.

Polychromos pencils are oil-based, so they’re harder than most wax-based pencils. If you currently use Prismacolor (as I do,) you’ll notice the difference the first time you put a Polychromos to paper.

Lightfastness

Faber-Castell rates their colors on a scale of three. Three stars is best ranking, one star the worst. Of 120 colors, two carry a one-star rating, and sixteen carry a two-star rating. The other 102 colors are all top-rated.

Even better: The rating is printed right on the pencil.

Faber-Castell Polychromos Review 3

Cost

Like many other artists, I’ve always thought of Faber-Castell Polychromos pencils as very expensive. I’m now rethinking that idea.

Yes, Prismacolor pencils are about half the initial purchase price, but if you buy a full set of 150 (retail about $313,) and then toss the fugitive colors (roughly half the colors,) you end up spending $313 for 75 pencils. That calculates to about $4.17 per usable pencil.

A full set of 120 Faber-Castell pencils retails for $323. Even if you discard the poorest rated, you’re still going to have 102 pencils, or $3.17 per pencil.

Faber-Castell Polychromos Review 1

Initial cost is not the only factor. I’ve drawn enough drawings on enough different papers to discover Polychromos go further than Prismacolor.

How much further? I don’t yet know that, but judging by the amount of pencil used and the number of drawings completed, the prognosis is that they’ll last long enough to make the initial investment pay off.

UPDATE: At publishing time, Dick Blick had a full set of Prismacolor for only $72.09. If cost is your primary factor, you won’t be able to beat this price with any other pencil. However, my opinion is that quality control issues and lightfast issues still make Polychromos a better value.

Color Selection

Faber-Castell pencils are available in a total of 120, including a beautiful selection of colors well suited to landscape and animal drawings. The “earthy” greens and blues are ideal for the type of work I do.

There are also enough bright, vibrant colors to satisfy floral artists and others.

Faber-Castell Polychromos Review 2

The only thing I wish there were more browns. Earth tones are among my favorite colors, though, so no matter how many I have, I never have enough!

Performance

If you’ve always used wax-based or soft pencils, Polychromos pencils will feel “scratchy” the first time you use them.

Color lay down is not quite as swift as with softer pencils, but they do hold a point much longer, and—as I already mentioned—you can do more drawing before having to sharpen them.

They blend very well with dry blending methods (colorless blenders, burnishing, tortillions.) I have yet to try blending with paper towel or cloth, but that’s primarily because I’ve been drawing on sanded pastel paper. For that application, a stiff bristle brush is ideal for blending.

And Polychromos excel on sanded pastel paper (more on that in a future post.)

To this point, I’ve used Polychromos pencils in combination with Prismacolor pencils and Koh-I-Nor woodless pencils. All three brands work well together. For best results, use the softer pencils to lay down color more quickly, then draw details with the harder Polychromos pencils. But there really is no “right way” to combine them.

Conclusion

The bottom line is that the Polychromos pencils have done everything I’ve tried to do with them.

Do I recommend them to other artists? Absolutely!

Are they worth the additional cost? Absolutely.

You may not switch to them exclusively, but it’s my opinion that you will not regret giving them a try.

Since I understand budget limitations, buy a few of your favorite colors open stock, or buy some of the smaller sets.

Then do everything with them that you do with whatever brand of pencil you currently use.

Tips for Using Sanded Pastel Paper

Lets talk about sanded pastel paper today. You know, that paper that looks and feels like the sandpaper from the local hardware store.

And lets begin with a reader question.

I was interested in the brand of sanded paper you prefer to use. I’ve used Uart 800 before but I find it a little hard to work on. I would appreciate your opinion.

Tips for Using Sanded Pastel Paper

The paper I use most is Uart, but that’s not because it’s better than any other paper out there. It’s because I started wtih Uart. I have also used Fisher 400 and while there isn’t much difference between them if you use 400 grit paper. I prefer the finer grits available through Uart.

How I Got Started Using Sanded Pastel Paper

I got a sample pack from Uart years ago. It contained the four “grits” they had available at the time. If I remember correctly, that was 400, 500, 600, and 800.

I chose to try the 800 grit because I thought it was the closest to regular drawing paper. It isn’t. None of them are like regular drawing paper in the least.

Read how I used sanded pastel paper for this first drawing on EmptyEasel.

My Initial Response to Sanded Pastel Paper

After finishing that first ACEO, I thought sanded pastel paper was interesting, but not something I wanted to use on a regular basis.

Then I received a request for a project on sanded pastel paper. I didn’t want to turn that down, so I looked up those sample sheets and ordered more, then started practicing. The first couple of drawings were satisfactory, but were also definitely learning experiences!

By the third or fourth one, I was beginning to find my stride. You know what? I also realized I liked drawing on sanded pastel papers.

Tips for Using Sanded Pastel Paper

Those “practice drawings” revealed that the right methods, and the right pencils go a long way toward making sanded pastel paper useful and now I almost prefer it to any other type of paper for landscapes.

Following are a few suggestions to consider if you’re thinking about trying this unique drawing surface.

Find the Right Paper

Uart is my preferred sanded paper, but there are others. Fisher 400 is a good paper and comes in sheets, rolls, and in board form. Ampersand pastelbord and Art Spectrum Colourfix sanded papers (and panels) are available in a variety of colors. Canson Mi-Teintes is also now available in a sanded surface. A lot of artists are also using Clairefontaine Patelmat.

Although they are all sanded papers, they’re not all be the same. To find the best fit, try as many as you can afford, or care to try.

Try Different Grits

“Grit” refers to the coarseness of the paper. The lower the number, the coarser the paper. I don’t know about other companies, but Uart has six different grits, ranging from 240 to 800.

I’ve used 400, 500, 600, and 800, and prefer the finer grits, but will also be trying some of the coarser papers. 600 and 800 grit are my favorites.

Try the different grits to find the one that suits your working methods and drawing style best.

Try Different Pencils

So far, I’ve used Prismacolor Soft Core, Koh-I-Nor Progresso Woodless, and Faber-Castell Polychromos.

Faber-Castell Polychromos work the best (for me.) They blend with a stiff brush with or without solvent. They also produce a powdery residue you can blend with a dry, stiff brush, almost like pastel.

Woodless pencils (I use Koh-I-Nor Progresso Woodless pencils) are great for laying down a lot of color fast. I haven’t tried dry blending them with a stiff brush, but I don’t think they produce the same amount of powder as the oil-based Polychromos. I’m going to have to do some testing on that to find out for sure.

Woodless colored pencils are ideal for laying down initial color on sanded pastel paper. Not only are they larger than even the largest colored pencil; you can use them like a piece of chalk and draw with the sides.

If you work large, or if there are large expanses of color in your composition, give this a try. The speed with which you can block in colors and shapes is amazing.

Or use your regular pencils like a pastel and draw with the side of the exposed pigment core.

General to Specific

Working on sanded pastel paper is a lot like training a dog (or cat—yes, it is possible.) It’s best to start general and work toward specific.

What do I mean by that? Roughly block in colors, values, and shapes, then develop detail.

Because of the tooth of the paper, you can continue to add details, accents and even highlights late in the drawing process. Even the finest grits take additional color after a dozen or more layers.

You Can Work Light over Dark

It is possible to work light over dark with most colored pencils on sanded pastel paper. It’s not the same as painting light over dark, but you can add lighter or bright highlights if you need to.

It’s still advisable to work around highlights whenever possible, but sanded pastel papers are more forgiving in this area than most traditional drawing papers.

Conclusion

Those are just a few of the things I’ve learned about how drawing with sanded pastel papers differ from drawing on regular papers. The bottom line is that it’s to your benefit to experiment, and that it is worth the effort.

Want to Know More?

I wrote an article on this subject for EmptyEasel. 5 Tips for Drawing on Sanded Pastel Paper with Colored Pencils features additional tips for drawing on sanded pastel paper.