This week’s Tuesday Tutorial is the final tutorial in this series. We’ll be finishing a landscape on sanded paper.
The focus for today is drawing the center of interest, but I’ll also touch on the final stages of the drawing.
In case you missed them, links to the previous posts in this series are below.
Now for this week’s tutorial.
Finishing a Landscape on Sanded Paper
Drawing the Center of Interest
Step 1: Block in the basic shadows within the tree.
The trees that are the center of interest are closer than any of the other trees, and they’re also more lacy in appearance, so use squiggly or stippling strokes (or a combination) to draw the shadows with Olive Green.
Also “sketch” in the trunks.
Make sure to leave lots of openings in this layer of color. Some of it will be the background showing through the tree when the tree is finished. Other parts will be highlights in the tree.
Work over the background as well as within the tree itself.
Step 2: Darken the shadows within the tree.
Next, dot Marine Green into the shadows of the tree, and also around the edges, overlapping the background on the shadowed side of the tree.
Use medium pressure or slightly heavier, and a blunt pencil held in a more vertical position.
Step 3: Add the middle values.
Add another layer of Olive Green over all of the trees, including the shadows.
Step 4: Add a lighter color in the lighter middle values and highlights.
Layer Jasmine over every part of the trees except the shadows to lighten the green. Use a sharp pencil with medium pressure or lighter, and a squiggly or stippling stroke (or whatever stroke works best for you.)
Don’t layer Jasmine over everything. Leave Olive Green showing through some areas to create more subtle variations in color and value.
Step 5: Darken the shadows.
Add a few darker accents to these trees with a mix of Olive Green, Marine Green, and Indigo Blue.
TIP: If the foreground trees get too dark, lighten them by lifting color or adding more Jasmine (or other lighter color.) You may also darken the background trees.
Step 6: Begin adjusting color and value in the foreground hills.
Layer Sepia very lightly over the shadows in the hill with medium pressure and horizontal oval-shaped strokes.
Follow up with Jade Green, also applied with small, horizontal ovals and medium pressure. Shade all of the shadow and work into the lighted hilltop slightly to soften that edge.
Step 7: Tone down the greens with an earth tone.
Tone the base greens with a layer of Sepia. Use short horizontal strokes in the more distant hills and vertical, grass-like strokes in the foreground.
Next, add a layer of Chartreuse, then Olive Green. Layer a little further out of the shadows and into the highlights with each color to create middle values. Don’t put every color in every place so to create variations of color and value.
Step 8: Dry blend with a stiff brush.
Next, dry blend the colors with a stiff bristle brush. Stroke in the same direction as you applied color, over the contours of the hill. You can scrub a little bit if you wish.
The sanded art paper will take heavy pressure and you don’t need to worry about removing color by blending with heavy pressure. If you want very smooth, blended edges, then blend with heavy pressure.
If you want to preserve some of the edges, blend with lighter pressure.
Step 9: Repeat steps 6 – 8 on the rest of the foreground.
Repeat the process for each of the hills. Continue adding color, then dry blending until each part of the foreground looks the way you want it. Work from background forward, from the tree line to the bottom of the drawing.
Step 10: Draw tall grass in the extreme foreground.
Before drawing tall grass all the way across the front hill, add or finish any trees that the taller blades of grass will overlap.
Then use long, directional strokes to draw tall grass, overlapping the hills in the back. Use a variety of greens, dark blues, and dark browns. I used Prismacolor Verithin Olive Green, and Dark Umber for most of the tall grass, and added strokes of Indigo Blue in the darkest shadows on the left.
My favorite way to draw tall grass.
Use different shades of green, dark blue, and dark brown to draw layer after layer of overlapping, directional strokes, as I’ve done on the left of the illustration below.
A faster way to draw tall grass.
Begin by shading a base of green over the paper. Dry blend that color, then apply more color and repeat the blending until the base color is the way you want it.
Then use curving, directional strokes to add enough detail to make the area look like grass.
Both methods work very well.
Step 11: Final review and adjustments.
At this stage in the process, the look of your landscape becomes a matter of personal preference. I like to get as realistic a drawing as possible, but you may want a less detailed landscape. There is no right or wrong way to finish your drawing. Work on each area to your satisfaction.
You will also want to set the drawing aside over night when you think it’s finished. This will allow you to review the drawing with a fresh eye the next day, and you’ll be better able to see what adjustments need to be made.
Is it finished or isn’t it?
After letting the drawing sit a couple of days, I reviewed it again and decided all it needed was the usual final-round touchups.
I emphasized the tall grass in the foreground, then deepened the shadows in the trees, added some low scrub brush on the hills.
Those are the steps for finishing a landscape on sanded paper, and that’s the conclusion of this series.
Drawing on sanded art paper is almost like learning a new medium. It’s close enough to using colored pencils on regular drawing paper to provide a relatively easy transition.
But it’s enough different to give you a challenge and make you stretch your skills.
It’s well worth the effort to master though, and I’m looking forward to doing many more landscapes on sanded art paper. Maybe even painting some portraits on it!